Micah H.


The short story is we didn’t climb the route.  We did summit twice, once via the West Buttress and again via the Upper West Rib.  I went there the fittest I’ve been since I ended serious triathlon training and racing in 2007, and I felt amazingly strong the entire trip.

We flew in 4 days after arriving in Talkneeta with amazing weather.  However, our 18 glacier days had now become 15. That amazing weather was forecast to persist for a long time and it did.  We made 14k on day 5.  Each day felt good.  I was never tired or sore from any of the carries.  We acclimated to 16700 on day 6, and rested day 7.  Day 8 we summited via the Buttress.  I remember from an email you sent me that you predicted we could hit the summit from 14k in 7 hours.  We made there in 7 hours and some odd minutes.  It was hard moving from Denali Pass on up but we felt great and the weather was great!

Said and done, I believe we had a trip many would kill for.  2 summits in 13 days with outstanding weather for the first 8 and pretty good weather for the remainder.  I don’t think anyone gets that very often.  I felt strong the entire time and want to thank you for being a big part of helping me train for the trip.

I keep wishing I could only fit more alpine climbing into my life.  The combination of technical climbing and aerobic strength needed make it a perfect fit for me.  The experience base and head game needed to really succeed remains a challenge for me however.  Trips like that won’t come by often for me and to not climb the Cassin knowing how long it may be before I can return is tough.  Some day…


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