I developed this plan over a 10-month period, starting in December 2017 and finally publishing it in September 2018. I spent more time developing and refining this plan than any other to date. This plan, due to it’s advanced nature, required that level of attention to detail. Much of this time was spent developing two workouts which became the key workouts of the plan. I’ve called those the “Figure-4 Pain Circuit” and the “Advanced Mixed Climbing Work Capacity”. These two workouts combined with the uniquely progressive Endurance Ladder Workout are balanced in such as way as to create a progressive framework for achieving your greatest strength-endurance potential.
The training plan can be extended by repeating weeks 5-8 to make it a 12 or 16-week program. I also included two maintenance workouts intended for use during the season so you can keep your strength and power-endurance tuned for up a 8-10 week season.
This strength-focus plan is intended for M7/M8 mixed climbers who want to break into harder mixed routes. You should be an advanced climber coming off a season of rock climbing at 5.11 on-sight / 5.12 redpoint level.
Fitness requirements when starting this plan: Be healthy and free of injuries. After a warm up you can do 20 pull ups with good form without a break. And complete a minimum of 20 sec one arm tool hang on your weak arm.
For those with sufficient base, this plan can be combined with a aerobic-focus plan with these strength workouts being done in addition to the lower-body strength work typically found in an uphill-aerobic training plan.
Photo of Angelika Rainer on “Tomorrow’s World” by Michael Maili
For detailed information and to understand how this plan is constructed, please consult our book, “Training for the New Alpinism” published by Patagonia Books. Here’s useful beta about how to purchase and start your new plan and why we use TrainingPeaks. For specific questions about this training plan, or to send us your success story email us at firstname.lastname@example.org.
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