High Altitude Climbing: 13 Tips for a Successful Expedition

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-By Uphill Athlete co-founders Steve House and Scott Johnston

9 April 2018

If you’re heading to the Himalaya this month, congratulations!  As you start your journey we’d like to share our tips and recommendations that will help you while traveling to, acclimating for, and climbing in the big hills.

Training

  1. You are as fit as you are going to be right now. Running (or hiking) in Kathmandu/Dehli/Islamabad is more dangerous than it is worth. What we advise is for you to relax during the travel. Pay close attention to personal hygiene, and sleep as much as you can. You’ll likely be carrying fatigue from all the hard training.

The Khumbu (especially) is heavily traveled with thousands of people coming from all over the world. These people will be carrying all sort of germs with them. Sanitation may be poor and the spread of disease there is one of the principle causes of failure to summit.

Trekking

  1. Carry a small bottle of hand sanitizer and use it frequently. Minimize your contact with other people.
  2. Deep fatigue will depress your immune system and make you much more susceptible to illness. Do not push yourself during the approach to EBC.
  3. Consider wearing a surgical mask or bandana over your nose and mouth when you have to be in a tight space with a lot of strangers, especially if you notice any sick people in your immediate area. We know this is not the height of fashion, so if anyone asks, tell them you have a cold and don’t want to get others sick.
  4. Do not push yourself on the daily treks to base camp. You will not gain more fitness this way and in fact jeopardize your health.  We ask the athletes we coach to wear their heart rate monitors so as to be careful not to exceed their aerobic threshold HR during the trekking days.  If you don’t want to wear a monitor, simply keep your the effort to a comfortable talking pace.  Do not even look at David Goettler’s Strava segments and become tempted to compete with his times.
  5. Resist the need to carry a heavier pack on these days. Carry the minimum weight necessary. The less you stress yourself on these days the easier time you will have acclimating and thus the better you will be setting up yourself for success later.
  6. Have a plan for your mid-trek rest day. Restorative (very gentle) yoga, an easy, slow stroll for 30-60 minutes. Completing a crossword.
  7. Never run on your rest day.

Trekking up the Barun Valley en route to Makalu.

Climbing

High altitude climbing is a game of preparation (doing it) and patience (practicing it). Keep in mind that, in the end, the only important days are the days leading up to summit day, summit day itself, and getting back down safely and efficiently. The weeks, or sometimes months, leading up to the summit push provide numerous opportunities to fail.

  1. Go Slowly. Your goal during the acclimatization period is to go as slowly as is reasonable. As much as possible stay at a conversational pace. You may well experience competition among your teammates to see who carries the most weight, who gets from C1 to C2 the quickest, etc. DO NOT GET SUCKED INTO THIS.  Your goal should be to a) fulfill your responsibilities to the team and b) conserve as much energy as you can. c) have that energy on tap during the climb to and back from the summit. This means going slowly, often for many weeks. Remember how higher intensity training results in necessarily longer recovery times? The same is true at high altitude but the effect is magnified many fold and overexertion can easily doom your climb. Go slowly and carefully throughout the acclimatization period. It’s our experience that the more energy you can conserve in the first part of the expedition the more energy you’ll have when it counts.
  2. Most climbers share the experience that their appetites will fluctuate significantly over the course of the expedition. This is normal. Eat well, when you can. When your appetite is suppressed you still need to force yourself to eat something. Even if it’s a simple energy bar that substitutes for dinner, or even a gel, or worst case, liquid calories like sugary sports drinks or recovery mixes. Some food is always better than none.
  3. Sleep is your bodies most important recovery modality. Create a healthy sleep routine and stick to it as best you can. Get on a schedule. Relax. Read. Breathe. Try to avoid checking up on work or solving whatever problems await you back home. Mental peace is the first step to relaxing, and therefore sleeping. Consider cutting the cord on un-necessary communications. Your acclimatization and endurance capacity will benefit greatly from improved sleep. Remember to avoid sleeping pills that act as respiratory depressants, which includes most popular prescription sleeping medications. Melatonin is a natural, proven and safe sleep aid.
  4. Days off in base camp. There will be considerable inactivity during this trip. Much more that you are normally used to at home. That is part and parcel of high altitude climbing. Besides allowing time for acclimatization there will be weather days. You cannot speed the process of acclimatization and you can’t improve your fitness once this trip starts. Do not “train” on your rest days. This is very bad idea. If you are restless do gentle Yoga or take a walk. Do not engage in vigorous exercise in hopes of slowing the inevitable decay of your fitness. The reason you have engaged in a prolonged training program is to have your fitness bank account as large as possible so you can be making withdrawals from it for many weeks without fear of bouncing any checks.
  5. One of Steve’s favorite base camp past-times is breathing steam. Set up a large pot of hot water, place your face in it, place a towel over your head, and breathe! Start by inhaling through your mouth and exhaling through your nose. The goals is to clean and moisturize your often-dry sinuses. Above BC Steve carries a tiny bottle of saline nasal spray for the same purpose. Keeping your sinuses clean and open helps keep you healthy as well helping your breathing and sleeping.

Climbers Marko Prezelj and Vince Anderson working to stay healthy in a lodge in Nepal.

Minimizing your chance of becoming ill, going slowly, sleeping a lot, and being patient are simple, but tried and true ways to make sure that you get to put your hard-earned fitness to the test.

Come back safe, come back friends, and get to the summit.

Best of luck. We’re pulling for you!


 

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