what gym machine would you guys say most replicates ski touring ?
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a light one by Outdoor Research can’t remember tthe model name. if I were doing more technical winter climbing I’d go for something more robust.
I think the fleece (or grid fleece style baselayer) + wind shell works really well. Just layer over at rest breaks or belays or if conditions really turn worse.
if your out in wet conditions long enough you’re going to get wet to some degree either from sweat or precip. Andy Kirkpatrick has a few good articles on his site about keeping emphasising comfort over waterpoofness. In wet conditions I like pile or micro-gtid material next to skin with a wind shell over. something like patagonia r1 + houdini combination or rab vaporize if you prefer integrated. Then simple srain shell over that. the pile/wind shell combo stops condensation from rain jacket from chilling you and provides warmth when damp.James H on April 14, 2018 at 7:22 am · in reply to: Ultrarunning a detriment or asset to training for alpinism? #9358
Do you still use a HR monitor for training Steve?
Matey – I won’t echo what Scott S has said because he is 100% correct in what he is saying.
Your output at 180 – age HR is a great measure of aerobic conditioning aka the MAF test. You can hike up a trail or run around a park etc as long as it is easily repeated. You don’t say how long you’ve been doing you’re job but if it’s more than a few months there is a good chance you aren’t getting much of a stimulus from it.
Hi Luke thanks for the reply! I picked up an outdoor research helium jacket that is very light and fully taped seams. Although I was still going to carry my trusty Houdini jacket as it is way way more breathable than a waterproof shell and is obviously much better to run in if it’s cold or just light rain/drizzle. For my ‘long sleeve warm layer’ I was going to go with an R1 pull over. I’ll be out there a lot longer than you would be but roughly how many calories do you shoot for over this sort of event ?
Hi Scott and Scott – thanks for the replies guys!
https://www.lakedistrictskytrails.com/scafell-sky-race-40km-2900m this is the event – so quite a lot of technical ground to cover.
Jacket wise yeah its just for race requirements (has to have taped seams) – I’ve got a standard climbing hardshell thats light but nowhere near as light/packable as the above options and I’d imagine if the weather is bad enough to warrant a full hardshell the route would probably altered for safety.
Gels and fruit and nut bars seem to work pretty well for me. On an 8 hour climbing day in the alps last year I remember I consumed 2 bars and 2 gels and I think that came to around 700-800 calories.
A good way to run without your HR going to high is to find a relatively long moderate gradient downhill, this should let you run without your HR going above the aerobic zone and get used to running action.
Don’t worry about having to walk though. It just takes a bit of a mental shift in attitude. I’m a fairly experienced runner and I walk hills especially towards the end of long runs in order to keep my HR in the aerobic zone.
Interesting thread. I read in TFTNA that Vince Anderson did no structured training for Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face with Steve. How did he have the level required to do such a climb? Years of guiding? Climbing as ‘training’ only?
RPM – I’m not an exercise physiologist or expert but I do have a fair amount of endurance training background. My MAF HR (152 = 180-age no adjustments seems to correlate well with my aerobic max. I don’t always like the nose breathing method as I’ve found with practice I could if I wanted take really deep nose breaths whilst above MAF – in the black hole. I understand where you are coming from but if I was training at 16-18 beats above MAF – which would be the high 160s for myself – I would hit overtraining quite quickly and also that would be a very hard workout for me, certainly not a base endurance building workout. I’d agree MAF might not work for everyone but 151-155 seems too high for a 45 year old.