What are ‘long climbs” in Training by Climbing section?

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  • #53311

    I’ve been very interested in the training by climbing section towards the end of TFTNA. However I have a couple of questions.

    The first is about the transition period. It says to climb long, easy routes two to four days a week, starting off with about 5 pitches. Then it says “It doesn’t sound like much until the eight week when you’re doing 15 pitches per day that are one grade below your best redpoint.” I’m just a bit confused about this. If your increasing by about 5% each week then it wouldn’t seem that you could ever climb that much 4 days a week. If you’re climbing 4 days instead of 2 then should you have less pitches per day, adding up to the same weekly total? Also what should the grade be? Should it always be about one grade below your best redpoint? Where you’re not falling. Also for the endurance training of this period it says to add two low intensity endurance workouts. Would a long approach to a climb work for those or should I add two low intensity endurance sessions on top of the approaches?

    Then I have some questions about the base period. For the “climb for pace” are the long climbs referring to multipitch routes? If I only have access to a gym or crag with no lengthy approaches should I continue to add low intensity endurance workouts? And finally for the Muscular Endurance Plus Volume section, are the long routes in the “Personal Records on Long Routes” still referring to multipitch climbing? Or should these long routes be alpine style climbs? And how should you determine the length of workouts for this period? How long would the two climbing for difficulty:muscular endurance days be? And same for the long routes? And it also seems to me that there’s not a lot of endurance volume during this period besides the one or two approaches to the long climbs, which is recommended to do muscular endurance during those anyway. It just seems to me that there should be some more low intensity sessions during this period. It does say to do relaxed runs for recovery as well though, so maybe that’s enough.

    Anyway this is kinda long. Let me know if I should clarify anything. Thanks for providing this platform to work on these things with others!

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