Pre-hab routine

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #32617
    Moloch
    Participant

    Hello all!

    I’m new to the forum and semi-new to mountaineering and general mountain training. I have TFTNA and used it to plan my training last year but was thrown off by a knee injury. I’m hoping to get back into it and was wondering if any of you guys follow a generalized injury prevention plan alongside your training (preferably for hips, knees, and shoulders).

    Thanks!

  • Keymaster
    Scott Johnston on #32694

    Moloch;

    You’re wise to look to injury prevention by using strength training. We’ve had great luck with single legged exercises for mountain sports. Things like the box step up, split squat and lunge. All these sports rely heavily on your hip stability. These single leg exercises have a great training effect on hip stabilizers while they are also training the prime movers that are responsible for locomotion. Two legged lifts like back squats and deadlifts, while good general strength, are not as well suited for mountain athletes as the single legged stuff.

    Good luck.
    Scott

    Participant
    maxf on #32713

    For shoulders: I do the following stretches usually quickly/ easily before workout/climbing to loosen up and longer hold after or on off days for flexibility (hold for 60-90 sec)

    Shoulder extension: Puppy pose / puppy pose with arms flexed
    For lats – hang on bar with one arm and feet partially supported, then move feet away to stretch lat / side of hanging arm
    Front of chest / pec: lie face down arms extended at 90 deg then roll towards each side
    Posterior shoulder / capsule stretch: lie face down with one arm crossed under the opposite armpit. can use opposite knee bent to increase stretch

    For more strength / mobility I am a big fan of rocking bridges to open up the chest and get the posterior upper back muscles working. I also try to do I Y T type exercises with a light dumbell and some shoulder dislocates both with theraband to warm up and with light weighted bar to develop shoulder strength and control.

    Finally – I have no evidence this is any good, but I am really enjoying handstands as a simple way to balance all the pulling of climbing, and to force me to open up my shoulders, plus they are a fun party trick!

    (any of these that dont make sense i can probably find some examples)

    Keymaster
    Scott Semple on #32738

    As additional support, you may want to check out Becoming a Supple Leopard. It’s excellent.

    The quick-start method is to flip to page 472 and start using the two-week beginner program.

    Participant
    Moloch on #32806

    Thank you all! This is exactly what I was looking for.

    I’ve started integrating YTAs for my shoulders as well as downward dog push ups, etc. I’m switching from back squats and leg extensions to blugarian split squats and Dumbbell/Barbell lunges. I’ve also started moving away from powerlifting/crossfit style lifting towards bodybuilding style as (to my understanding) it is better for tendon and ligament strengthening.

    I have Becoming a Supple Leopard tucked away somewhere among my small library of fitness books. I’ll dust it off and start implementing their routine and see if that helps.

    Definitely feel like I shouldn’t be having all these aches at 27 years old, but it is what it is and I’ve gotten better at tempering my enthusiasm, which was a problem and led to many injuries in my teens and early 20s.

    Participant
    Moloch on #32807

    Max, I know most of the movements you’re talking about except the rocking bridges. Do you mind posting a video or pic of what that looks like.

    Participant
    maxf on #32825

    rocking bridges is probably not quite right name.

    maybe “thrusting reverse table top”

    You do a “reverse table pose” from yoga (with hands forward, nice stretch for front of chest and gets the back of shoulders firing)

    Then drop your bum to the ground. Then thrust up to reverse table top again. then repeat for 15-30 reps. I find this great to warm up shoulders prior to climbing.

    PURVOTTANASANA (REVERSE PLANK) is also good maybe slightly harder variant

    The other one I like but takes a lot of flexibility is pushups in full bridge. as per this link

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