[Uli]

When the world reopens, I would like to attempt Mont Blanc in a day starting from the valley floor in Les Houches. I am looking for recommendations on the following:

(1) What level of footwear (boots vs shoes, crampons vs spikes vs nothing) and outerwear is sufficient?
(2) What time is best in the May-September window (I am a student with a flexible schedule; here, I define “best” as minimizing people and maximizing weather quality)?

Thank you!
Uli

Topic

[Tyler Johnson]

Tyler Johnson on March 5, 2021 at 11:34 am #51603

Uli,

Do you have previous mountaineering experience? Mont Blanc is an “intermediate” mountain, but you absolutely need experience. I recommend checking out this article: https://www.theatlantic.com/international/archive/2012/07/why-is-mont-blanc-one-of-the-worlds-deadliest-mountains/260143/

[Uli]

Uli on March 5, 2021 at 2:03 pm #51608

Yes, plenty of experience, just none in the Alps (and I have not seen much good logistical information on these lighter attempts elsewhere).

[timrasmus]

timrasmus on March 7, 2021 at 1:42 am #51650

Hi Uli, there are rules and regulations on place from french authorities in regards to minimum equipment and even hut reservations (not sure if this will be enforced in 2021). You have to make sure to check these.
Access to the mountain is regulated and there is police on the scene at Tete Rousse.

Starting from Bionnassay village might be an alternative you want to look at. The way up is nicer than going through the Les Houches ski resort.

Best time is during summer months, but there is no way to balance good weather and low numbers of other climbers. It is an either or decision.

Although Montblanc has got the name and altitude to make it a tempting goal, there are plenty alternatives in the Alps with similar vertical ascent and more freedom to it.

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on April 23, 2021 at 8:50 am #53341

@dieterle: In the interest of safety, these comments seem to contradict each other:

(1) What level of footwear…
(2) What time is best…

…and…

Yes, plenty of experience…

Be careful! The Atlantic article that Tylre linked to is a good one.