[ribtoks]

I would like to ask you a question about training for a rock climbing based on a Capacity/Utilization training principle.

So the question is: if a person is in a base training phase (working on capacity) for quite some time (since this phase is the longest one) will the short performance weekend trips (sort of utilization training) have any effect on efficiency of the capacity training in a long run? Because ultimately this is kind of breaking the overall training style and mixing it with something completely different. Or it’s fine and the worse side-effect is that during that performance trips your performance won’t be so great?

Thank you

Topic

[ribtoks]

ribtoks on April 12, 2017 at 9:58 am #4515

I would like to ask a question about training for a rock climbing based on a Capacity/Utilization training principle.

So the question is: if a person is in a base training phase (working on capacity) for quite some time (since this phase is the longest one) will the short performance weekend trips (sort of utilization training) have any effect on efficiency of the capacity training in a long run? Because ultimately this is kind of breaking the overall training style and mixing it with something completely different. Or it’s fine and the worse side-effect is that during that performance trips your performance won’t be so great?

Thank you

[Anonymous]

Anonymous on April 12, 2017 at 4:30 pm #4517

ribtoks:

This is a question we have fielded many times. Here is an article I wrote dealing with it:
https://uphillathlete.com/the-weakened-weekend-warrior/. I does not matter what the sport. Every athlete has this same conundrum.

While building capacity on the base period, if you are doing it correctly, you will be carrying a low but persistent level of fatigue almost daily. This means that those weekend trips are not going to be send-fests with you making huge gains. The only way for you to exploit (utilize) whatever capacity gains you have made to date will be for you to rest enough before that weekend trip so that you will no longer be building capacity. You can’t continue to build capacity while maximally utilizing it at the same time. Just can’t happen.

We suggest using those base period weekend climbing trips as an extension of the capacity training idea. Work on skills and do many pitches at moderate (for you) grades. If instead, you decide to focus on utilization, meaning, climbing at whatever limit your current capacity allows, two things will likely happen: You will no doubt be disappointed in your performance and you will really dig a deep hole of fatigue that may mean several days of rest before being able to get back on that capacity building routine.

This seems like poor trade off: You climb like shit AND you go home exhausted so that your capacity building is derailed.

I hope this helps.
Scott

[ribtoks]

ribtoks on April 13, 2017 at 3:24 am #4523

Very helpful.

Thank you, Mr. Johnston.