Mixed and Ice plan: tool hang reps confusion

  • Creator
  • #46095

    I’m using this plan at the moment and have just completed week 4. I read on another thread that the ice tool hangs are supposed to be done in sets of 10. I’m disappointed to learn I’ve not been doing the ice tool hangs properly. IMO its not clear from the the instructions you’re meant to do 10 reps of 30 sec hangs. To quote the plan (week 4):

    ‘The last stage of the workout after the general routine above:
    Ice tool hangs for 30 seconds, tools in both hands. If you can now hang from one tool begin to do this for 15″ per arm. Do 2 sets of either single or 2 arm hangs with 2 min rest between. Stop if you start to shake. Keep your shoulder muscles active, don’t hang fully relaxed so that your shoulder is stretching out, this can cause injury.’

    It doesn’t say 10 reps nor does it say what rest you should take between reps (if its 2 min between sets). The other workouts in previous weeks have similar wording. Should I have been doing 2 x 10 reps of 30 sec hangs for this workout?

    In the Specific Strength WO #3 it says:
    ‘Ice Axe hangs;
    3 sets (each arm if needed) of 10 second hangs. Use enough weight that you can only hang 10 seconds. Take 1 min rest between hangs.’

    Does this mean 3 sets of 10 reps of 10 second hangs…? As in the general strength workout wording, reps are not mentioned. Some clarification would be welcome.

  • Keymaster
    Scott Johnston on #46155

    I’m sorry for your confusion. I hope I can clear it up.

    In weeks 1-2 the ice axe hangs at the end of the General Strength workouts are just 1 x 30s hangs with both arms. That’s it as this is meant as a basic conditioning exercise to prepare you for the next step. This may be too easy for you but when we write these programs we do not know the level of the the climber and we want to be sure not to prescribe something harmful for anyone.

    Starting in Week 3 the ice axe hangs change and the instructions read:
    Ice tool hangs for 30 seconds, tools in both hands. If you can now hang from one tool begin to do this for 15″ per arm. Do 2 sets of either single or 2 arm hangs with 2 min rest between.
    This is meant to be 2 15second hangs with one arm or 2 30second hangs with 2 arms taking a 2minute rest between. I see your confusion and will change the wording to, hopefully be more clear. This is just a progression in the conditioning phase and yo may need to adjust slightly to suit your strength. If you are stringer you might make this 3 reps of 15sec hangs and so on.

    In the Specific strength workouts. Substitute “reps” for “sets”. This is meant to be 3 10second hangs with 1 min recovery between .

    Again I humbly apologize for this confusion and hope this helps you sort it out. Thanks for brining it to my attention. I hope you can take some comfort in the fact that this program has been to very good effect, even with its confusing wording by even high level ice and mixed climbers.


    metrorunt on #46169

    Hi Scott, thanks very much for the clarification.

    Apart from that small confusion I’m finding it to be a great programme and am feeling the benefits already. Fortunately I have been doing as you describe with the tool hangs but became uncertain when reading ahead into the specific strength workouts.

    I searched on the forums for some clarification first and found a post from 2019 with someone essentially asking the same question but there was a reply from Steve H indicating the intention was sets of 10 30sec hangs (https://www.uphillathlete.com/forums/topic/ice-climbing-training-strenght-plan-specific-training/). Hence my confusion!

    Thanks again

    matt.macphee on #46202

    Hey just thought I’d echo metro’s comments. I am just finished week 3 and happened to pop on the forum and saw Steve’s post in the link above first, then spent 20 mins wondering if I had wasted the first three weeks of the program via confusing the recommended volume.

    The easiest clarification might just be to either remove or clarify Steve’s post from the other thread so people following the ice mixed plan don’t think they’ve made a mistake if they happen to see that post as both Metro and myself did. Had I not found this one I would have started to 10x my volume!

    I’m liking the program so far, I’m already seeing improvements in a few areas. Can’t wait for it to ramp up in the later weeks.

Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.