I know that similar queries have been answered before, but I’m not sure what the best things to do are for my circumstances, so I’m looking for advice.
I’m undergoing a physio program (following a knee injury last year) which involves leg strength exercises and gradual increases in running, and in the last month my physio has suggested it would be ok for me to start climbing, so I’ve tried to make a plan for something like the Transition period, but I’m wondering if I am spending too much time on strength / climbing, and I would be better spending more time on aerobic exercise / resting. For info., what I’m considering as my week 1 of the Transition Period had around 0.75 h of jogging / walking and around 1 hour of leg strengthening for my physio. program, 2 hours of climbing (2 x 2 x 30 min ARCs), around 0.75 h of UA core + upper body general strength (2 sessions per week) + maybe an hour of other aerobic, so a total of around 5.5 hours. I joined TP in August and my active (training) hours for September to March were 151, which scales to an annual of 259, giving an average of almost 5 hours per week, which would suggest a starting volume of about 2.5 hours per week, which seems quite low, and wouldn’t allow for the inclusion of the core and general strength, or the climbing (prioritising the physio program).
I’m now at week 5 of the Transition Period, and though I feel stronger, a problem I’m facing is trying to fit everything in, particularly as the leg exercises and climbing sessions are gym based, so involve a bit of travel time, and being restricted to their opening hours. Also, I am finding that the general strength sessions and climbing sessions are concentrated over the weekend, due to insufficient time on other days (due to e.g. work and physio exercises) and that as the duration of these sessions has increased (following the progressions for General Strength in TFNA and the ARC progression on UA), it’s getting even harder to fit it all in, and I’m wondering if I’ve started off too hard, and should cut back, and, if so, what. I’m guessing the climbing / general strength may be best, but not sure which / how much, so any guidance would be gratefully received.
Assuming I reach the required fitness levels, my climbing goals are mountaineering / alpine routes / scrambles in the Scottish mountains up to UK V.Diff level (which I think is about USA 5.4), multi-pitch climbing up to 5.9, sport up to 5.11.
So, in summary, my questions are:
1. Should the initial weekly training hours for someone who did 200-400 hours of training in the last year still follow the formula of half the average weekly hours in the last year, i.e. about 2-4 hours in the first week, and, if so, what would be the recommended aerobic / general strength / climbing split be for someone interested in alpine routes?
2. Have I started out too hard, and, if so, should I maintain my current training (without increase for a while) or cut back in order to get back on track? I am going to try and catch up with my TP logging to check my ramp rate.