I’m looking for a benchmark for target onsight and redpoint grades relative to a given grade of climbing on a mid-elevation (<=4000m/14000ft) goal route. How strong must one be at the crag to confidently onsight at 12,000ft on an alpine route where falling is not an option?
I’ve read New Alpinism, and while I don’t have the quote verbatim, there’s something to the effect of how cragging M9 isn’t going to be very useful training since the goal route isn’t going to have anything that hard. But what if it does?
For example, if you can barely eek out 5.13c while cragging at low elevation, I’m guessing “The Honeymoon Is Over” won’t happen either. Likely you should be climbing into the 5.14 range for this to be a realistic possibility given the approach, elevation, length of technical climbing, and difficulty. Similarly, if you want to climb a route with sustained WI4+, I imagine a cragging resume should include plenty of WI5+ and some WI6.
So, what’s the conversion? How strong should I be cragging if I want to climb a route with difficulties up to WI5 M5? Based on my prior experience, I’m thinking solidly onsighting M6 and redpointing M7 or M8 should do it?
Relatedly, how does this incorporate into a long periodized training plan (20 weeks or so)? It seems like the hard climbing should be happening from weeks 8 to 14 or so, with the remaining 4 to 5 weeks at the end left for transitioning to local muscular endurance (commonly called power endurance in the rock climbing literature). Does that sound about right?