Dry Tool Bouldering Circuit

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #5610
    brandon.eric.berg
    Participant

    So I have done the 8 week Mount Blanc Training program as well as the Ice and Mixed Climbing training program over the last year. They have been great; that is while I am able to consistently stick to them. Most recently I have come to the realization that I want to up my ice and mixed game this winter.

    While thinking about how to train for this I realized that bouldering would be good crossover training, especially for pure mixed climbing. The thing is I’ve never been able to get into bouldering. But I have drytool/ice climb trained on homemade wooden structures.

    Long story, how useful is it to adapt a bouldering program to drytool bouldering. I took what I foundhere and just use tools when doing it. I feel as though I can do this more consistentialy than I could do the tool hang killer core work of the mixed program.

    I figure training I enjoy and actually do is better than the ideal training that I don’t do.

  • Keymaster
    Steve House on #5620

    Hi-
    I’m glad the training plans have been working well for you.

    Regarding bouldering/dry-tooling, here are my thoughts:
    1) I stopped this a long time ago because I feel too often and got too hurt. The primary problem with drytooling on a artificial wall is that you fall unexpectedly (as with most dry-tool falls) and I just got too banged up. So I moved back to regular bouldering – using my hands – and adding a little specific work with ice-tool hangs. That’s how the ice-tool-hangs as we prescribe them came about. With ice climbing “every grip is a jug”, which is true, but what gets a lot of people is actually technique. They over-grip on the swing or don’t know where to swing or how to get their body in the right position to swing efficiently, this is climbing technique and the best prescription for this is to go wear out some picks and crampons.

    What I do do is use a Treadwall (rotating climbing wall, yes I own my own, just set it up!) with the ladder rungs installed. This lets me do volume, basically a really specific form of base training, on an overhanging wall hooking ladder rungs. I never slip off and I can wear any shoes to do it, boots are best as you get the abs and core working too. Will Gadd has some kind of wooden structure that he leans agains a tree that does the same thing, is much much cheaper and works in much the same way except you have to downclimb or jump from the top. I don’t have a photo of it but I bet there are some online somewhere. When I use a treadwall (the public gym in Ouray Colorado has one) I vary the length of the pull (reach) and the angle depending on what I’m doing. You’d be surprised how hard it is to stay on the treadwall set at dead vertical for 100 meters of climbing! Don’t want to go to failure, this isn’t (typically but can be) muscular endurance training, at least not at first, but with the treadwall it’s easy to turn it into this.

    Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, you have to be able to progress whatever you do in a controlled way. Remember that random exercise isn’t training, it’s well, exercise. Again, back to the boring, but quantifiable ice tool hangs. It’s a solution, and a very simple one that checks all the boxes.

    If you want to boulder, I’d check out the “dry ice tools”, google them, it’s a wooden leashless tool with half of a fan-belt bolted to the top. The fan belt hooks onto the holds. They slip a lot less than steel picks and so are safer. Hope that is helpful. Steve

    Participant
    psathyrella on #32831

    If anyone else has tried doing this, but feels like they’re too tall to climb on a treadwall with ice tools (or that the gym would freak out…), I’ve been playing around with just not using my index finger on regular treadwall jugs (i.e. keeping the index finger straight and using only the other three fingers). At least subjectively this does a much better job of replicating the feel of an ice tool pump for me than the feel of a regular rock climbing pump.

    Moderator
    TerryLui on #33163

    Will Gadd has some kind of wooden structure that he leans agains a tree that does the same thing, is much much cheaper and works in much the same way except you have to downclimb or jump from the top. I don’t have a photo of it but I bet there are some online somewhere.

    Here you go:
    http://willgadd.com/its-come-to-this-the-plice/
    http://willgadd.com/functional-movement-4-exercises-that-matter-for-sport-and-life/

Viewing 3 replies - 1 through 3 (of 3 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.