Due to lock-down in France I’m trying to come up with a decent ARC protocol when you have only access to a bouldering wall.
Why ARC ? because 1) this is what I really miss as it’s not possible to go outside climbing and 2) I think I need it the most to complement strength sessions 3) it’s probably the most portable training I believe when you don’t know when you’ll get access to real mountains again.
My wall is slightly over-hanging (20°), 3mx3m with a good variety of holds.
I manage to do, say, 10′ of climbing using the biggest holds/jugs, but I’m getting pumped relatively fast and cannot achieve an “ARC goal” of 30mn easy, active climbing. Also I don’t want to fall into the power endurance training as it’s too early and not my limiter right now.
Here is a tentative protocol that I tried to manage the pump:
– 10′ easy warm-up, inc. 3×1′ climbing
– 10x(1’45” climb + 1’15” rest)
– 3′ rest
– repeat 10x(1’45/1’15)
I can do that every other day and sometimes twice a day without getting too sore the day after so I guess the intensity is about ok.
My questions now:
1) is it hopeless to do ARC on a boulder wall ?
2) should I progress by reducing rest time ?
3) or adding more laps ?
PS: I’m doing it also with ice tools as my primary objective is ice this winter 🙂