
How to Administer and Analyze a Heart Rate Drift Test
Heart Rate Drift Test This test has become our go-to test for all our coached athletes. We like it…

Talking Health, Performance, and Longevity, with Jesse Charles, M.D
Scott Johnston is joined by Doctor Jesse Charles, M.D. Jesse is a rural medical doctor and longtime adherent to the…

Nose in a Day in the Time of COVID-19
Our Nose in a Day project wasn’t supposed to take so long. COVID closures, issues with training, the California wildfires—nothing…

Normobaric Hypoxic Tent Use Peer-Reviewed Research
While working on our article “Training, Oxygen Systems, and Hypoxic Tents: Success Factors for Climbing Mount Everest and 8,000-Meter Peaks,”…

Skill Training for Rock Climbing
Lots of climbers who want to improve tend to say, “I’m gonna go to the climbing gym two times a…

Mental Health for Mountain Athletes: Resilience
Mental health challenges, particularly the areas around trauma, loss, grief, and depression are a part of life for many mountain…

Tracing My Own Lines
About 35 hours into our Nolan’s 14 attempt in September 2017, I was intent on quitting. I couldn’t imagine what…

30/30 Interval Training and the Need For Speed
Many athletes I work with throughout the year target long-duration events: high-altitude climbs, ultramarathons, and big ski tours. As avid…

Training Outside the Box: The Power of Creativity
I’ve had an old, yellowed, hand-lettered sign posted in my gym for about 15 years. It reads, “If you train…