
How to Administer and Analyze a Heart Rate Drift Test
Heart Rate Drift Test This test has become our go-to test for all our coached athletes. We like it…

Talking Health, Performance, and Longevity, with Jesse Charles, M.D
Scott Johnston is joined by Doctor Jesse Charles, M.D. Jesse is a rural medical doctor and longtime adherent to the…

Nose in a Day in the Time of COVID-19
Our Nose in a Day project wasn’t supposed to take so long. COVID closures, issues with training, the California wildfires—nothing…

Anna Pfaff’s Expedition Packing List
I’ve gone on over 20 expeditions in my climbing life—to Pakistan, Nepal, Tibet, India, Antarctica, and all over South America.…

Ice Climbing: Core and the Figure 4
Many climbers write off the Figure 4 as an advanced ice climbing move reserved for the most advanced mixed climbers.…

The Future of Alpinism
Recently I attended the annual Guide’s Festival in Courmayeur, Italy, which is home to the second-oldest guide office in the…

Six Tips for Mountain Runners
The worlds of trail and ultrarunning are growing incredibly fast. Athletes from all types of mountain sports, as well as…

30/30 Interval Training and the Need For Speed
Many athletes I work with throughout the year target long-duration events: high-altitude climbs, ultramarathons, and big ski tours. As avid…

Heart Rate Drift: A Functional Measure of Aerobic Fitness
Back in the day, coaches and endurance athletes noticed that during prolonged training, an athlete’s heart rate would slowly climb…