
How to Administer and Analyze a Heart Rate Drift Test
Heart Rate Drift Test This test has become our go-to test for all our coached athletes. We like it…

Talking Health, Performance, and Longevity, with Jesse Charles, M.D
Scott Johnston is joined by Doctor Jesse Charles, M.D. Jesse is a rural medical doctor and longtime adherent to the…

Nose in a Day in the Time of COVID-19
Our Nose in a Day project wasn’t supposed to take so long. COVID closures, issues with training, the California wildfires—nothing…

Training, Oxygen Systems, and Hypoxic Tents
Success Factors for Climbing Mount Everest and Other 8,000-Meter Peaks -by Steve House and Dr. Monica Piris Education about the…

Recruitment Fingerboarding: An Island in the Chaotic Sea of Rock Climbing Training
Add this simple and effective recruitment fingerboarding workout to your training to track and improve finger strength over time. -by…

Ice Climbing Training: Grip Strength
The dreaded pump. Every climber has been there: You. Can’t. Hold. On. Any. Longer! Rock climbers’ best training weapon for…

30/30 Interval Training and the Need For Speed
Many athletes I work with throughout the year target long-duration events: high-altitude climbs, ultramarathons, and big ski tours. As avid…

10 Tips for Training Your Core for Ski Mountaineering
We rely heavily on something we call Scott’s Killer Core Routine, as detailed in Training for the New Alpinism. This…

DIY Skimo Core Strength
Core strength plays a supportive, albeit critical, role in locomotive sports like skimo racing. That role is to provide a…