
How to Administer and Analyze a Heart Rate Drift Test
Heart Rate Drift Test This test has become our go-to test for all our coached athletes. We like it…

Talking Health, Performance, and Longevity, with Jesse Charles, M.D
Scott Johnston is joined by Doctor Jesse Charles, M.D. Jesse is a rural medical doctor and longtime adherent to the…

Nose in a Day in the Time of COVID-19
Our Nose in a Day project wasn’t supposed to take so long. COVID closures, issues with training, the California wildfires—nothing…

Normobaric Hypoxic Tent Use Peer-Reviewed Research
While working on our article “Training, Oxygen Systems, and Hypoxic Tents: Success Factors for Climbing Mount Everest and 8,000-Meter Peaks,”…

Whit Magro: How to Climb 5.13
Back when I was doing a lot of shorter trips to Patagonia, really fast down and back, having success, I…

How to Climb the North Face of the Eiger
For many climbers the 1938 route on the Eiger would rightfully be a career highlight. It is a brilliant climb,…

Tracing My Own Lines
About 35 hours into our Nolan’s 14 attempt in September 2017, I was intent on quitting. I couldn’t imagine what…

Hut-to-Hut Ski Touring Gear List
The spring ski-touring season is close at hand. And as we’ve seen a surge of interest from our athletes, both…

Kilian Jornet Interview: Training for Different Races
Kilian Jornet explains in this video interview why he is no longer doing any interval training. He tells Steve House…